CURLS, DIAMETERS, LENGTHS, LASHES
C CURL - slight, natural curl. This curl works well with all lash types and is the only curl I really use. I have tested all the other curls and the C curls retention beats all the other curls on all types of natural lashes.
D CURL - this type of curl is used to create a more dramatic effect, it is also recommended to use on clients who want to extremely open their eye. I used to use this curl in combination with the C curl. However, I noticed that it can make the application to complex. I choose to keep my application simple.
If you would like to add D curls to your application, it is great in areas of the eye where it might need a lift! It is also great on the outer edge of the eye (of course you would want to use your shorter lengths)
L CURL - is often used for clients who have straight lashes and hooded eyes, or those whose lashes grow down; this curl is used for natural look. Again, C curl would be my choice in this situation as well.
When choosing your lengths be careful not to overextend the natural lash make sure to never go over 3mm. Overextending the natural lash can permanently damage the natural lash over time.
The natural lashes will always tell you where to apply the length. As you can see when looking at a client lashes it will be shorter near the inner and outer edge of the lash line. Therefor I place my shorter extensions on the inner and outer corner. If you add to much length to the inner eye it can tickle the eye area and cause irritation to the client’s eye. If you apply to much length to the outer corner it WILL make every clients eye look droopy.
I apply my shorter extensions first and cover the entire lash line. I then will bring in the length in the areas where the clients lashes were longer. Always apply the longer extensions to the longer and stronger natural lashes. Apply the shorter extensions to the shorter natural lashes, keeping in mind to stay away from the anagen phase as this phase is a very delicate phase and can easily be permanently damaged.
I personally avoid going over a 14 in length. I prefer the fuller look over the longer look. If you choose all length then the client will not shed her extensions naturally and will look like she has spidery lashes. If you combine the two the density from the shorter extensions will allow the clients lashes to shed nicely.
As for the diameter my personal preference is the .05, they are lighter & fluffier! You can also get away with more extensions per fan and more length! A fan using .07 should never have no more than 6 extensions per fan on a strong healthy natural lash. A .05 you can safely use 6-9 extensions per fan on a healthy strong natural lash.
TYPES OF EXTENSIONS
Camellia Lashes: each fan will have multiple lengths within the fan and will give your client a more natural fluffier appearance. Using Camellia Lashes you can get away with more extensions per fan then with Russian Lashes. Average extensions per fan: .07 6-8, .05 8-12
Blooming Camellia Lashes: (new favorite) each fan also has multiple lengths per fan however there is more shorter extensions within the fan and will give your client a fuller appearance. Average extensions per fan: .07 8-10, .05 10-15
Russian Lashes: each fan will have only one length. You have to be more aware of placement. Russian Volume give a very full appearance. .07 3-6, .05 6-9
Pre-Made Fans: These are similar to Russian fans but are already made for you. These are nice to use in combination with any other type of extension.
.10 and above are made for classic lashes where you are applying one extensions per natural lash.
